I just spent about a week in Bangkok and thought I’d pass along a few tips in the world of taxis in Bangkok. I want to preface this by noting that while I did take a lot of taxis over the last few days, I’m in no way an expert and this info is purely from my own perspective. I’d also like to point out that most of the advice I got about taking taxis was useless in practice.

Upon arrival in Bangkok we walked out to the taxi stand and were handed a printed flyer noting that meters are required by law in all taxis in Bangkok and to insist on the driver using the meter. Advice I read online also said to only ride in taxis that are using their meters. I don’t know if this is a new law or just one that is heavily resisted because through the entire trip, the one and only taxi who would use a meter was that first taxi from the airport. In all other cases the driver would just quote a price, and if we asked about the meter they would completely ignore the request. We passed on a few taxis because of this but realized quickly that if we actually wanted to get a ride in one we’d have to compromise.

Also, accepting an offer from a guy standing on the corner to get you a taxi is about the worst thing you can possibly do. We found in every case the broker taxis quoted much higher prices and always wanted to take us somewhere else. This includes the taxi guys who stand out in front of hotels. The solution that seemed to work best for us was to know where we wanted to go and offer the price we wanted to pay with the destination request. In almost all cases when talking directly to a driver this worked out flawlessly.

An example of this was this morning when we needed to get a ride to the airport. Since we had a meter taxi on the way in we know roughly what that ride should cost, the inbound ride cost us 300B. As we walked out of the hotel the street taxi brokers started yelling to us they would get us a taxi to the airport for only 600B. We replied that was way too much and we would only pay 300B. They scoffed, then came back with 500B. We continued to decline insisting that the ride should cost 300B and that was all we were willing to pay. They finally said fine and waved a taxi towards us. Luckily we thought to ask the driver about the cost and he said 450B. Bait and switch in effect. At the same time another taxi pulled up to drop some guests off at the hotel and we went to him directly “how much to go to the airport” “300B” “done!” we got in and paid him 400B when we got to the airport.

I think that unless you have much better luck than I do hoping to only ride in taxis with meters working is going to be problematic, and you’ll be much better off just knowing what you want to spend and offering that.

I adore Bangkok’s diverse and devoted eating culture. I like the unpretentious 20 baht noodles I can get down the street from my apartment, and I like that on the same block I can get something entirely pretentious that costs two order of magnitude more, and both will be delicious. I like the fresh fruit, I like the congenial atmosphere of the mid-range Thai restaurants, I like the local versions of Chinese and Japanese and Indian foods that I can get the same-but-different in the US. I like that exotic and morally problematic foods like shark’s fin inspire entire rows of restaurants devoted to their consumption.

The first time I ever set food in the food court at Siam Paragon, I wandered around and read the menu at every single food stall and restaurant, engaging in an odd sort of food voyeurism and strategizing future eating excursions. Afterwards, I compiled a list of ten things that really caught my attention:

1. Shark’s fin
2. Bird’s nest
3. Steak and kidney pie
4. Beard papa’s cream puffs
5. Marbled horse (raw)
6. Moussaka
7. Squid ink tagliatelli
8. Fois gras
9. Kentucky fried chicken
10. Whale

When my friend Steve visited for a couple days, I finally had a partner in crime to help me tackle some of the things on that list. Cream puffs fueled a couple hours of shopping (ok browsing), but once it was time for dinner, we decided to aim for the horse and the whale. This brought us to The Grill Tokyo, just a little bit down the hall from the huge food court, for a little “Japanese urban dining” or something like that.

It’s pricey (we spent about 2000 baht, with drinks), the sort of thing I would only do on a special occasion, but honestly, well worth it. The style is modern, but warm, and quiet, and freakin’ luxurious. We stuck to sushi and sashimi, and every thing we ordered was beautifully presented, perfectly fresh, simple, and like, the Platonic ideal of what that thing should be.

A plateful of specials (with an inexplicable pile of mealy-looking tomatoes teetering on the side) was explained to us, in great detail, as soon a we sat down. Actually seeing the pile of fresh seafood makes it very very hard to say no to any of it, but asking the price makes the job easier. We ordered the scallop sashimi, which did not disappoint.

Really fresh scallop tastes delicately sweet. I loved this, but I already love scallop. The yellowtail was also very good yellowtail, but again, I already really like yellowtail. The remarkable thing was that I actually loved the tuna, which I usually consider to be boring. This tuna melted, instead of having the sort of overly-lean texture I’m used to encountering.

The fact that the restaurant served both horse and whale (raw, as sashimi or nigiri) was what brought us in there, drawn in by the appeal of trying something entirely new. While the scallop was my personal favorite, the whale was Steve’s, followed closely by the horse. We’d basically walked in daring each other to eat something from my list, but in the end, the most memorable thing about that dinner was just that the taste, texture, and presentation of the food was really, really, endorphin-producingly good.

Upon entering Indus, you are greeted with stunning architecture and interior design. This isn’t some room pretending to be the Taj Mahal, but a well designed and intriguing atmosphere which adds to the vibe. Numerous awards are displayed to those who enter through the wooden doors and you are greeted by staff who actually look like they are happy to welcome you there.

The bar area is pleasant, but that’s not why we were there so a later review will happen on that aspect. The menu is the key part of this Indian experience, with Northern and Southern cuisine well represented. The dishes are reasonable priced, with your average being between 300 and 500 baht and each of the dishes did not disappoint at all.

In the end, Indus really does deliver a fantastic Indian meal. Highly recommended for anyone wanting a bleedin’ good ruby!

First impressions count in the restaurant industry and Mos Burger has a “Mom ‘n Pop” design to the layout of the store and menu. The first thing you may be greeted with is a large queue to order, yup this isn’t Le Gavroche but a Japanese burger joint. After 20 minutes in the queue, which gave us ample time to read the menu and decide what we were having, we placed the order and sat down. 10 minutes later this bundle of joy was placed on the table, and in the sheer excitement of the moment, we forgot to take pictures (and I’m the photographer!!)

First things first, back to the impressions count statement, Mos Burger really has thought about the process of eating it’s food. The packaging has been well-designed so that you can eat the food and not end up with sauce/crap all over you, this is commonly known as the Mickey D’s method of delivery.

I had the Teriyaki Chicken burger, whilst the lovely Emma had the Burger with the butterfly prawns as the sideline. WOW, crispy fresh lettuce, seriously when last did you have lettuce which wasn’t soggy?
Overall I’ll admit, we were impressed and this was by far the 2nd best burger I’ve had, the first place going to the Kobe Beef Burger I had in NYC, which was 169 dollars.

If you are looking for a better replacement burger than the usual crap, Mos Burger is your place (lets hope they sort out the queue issues though!)

Copyright DC 2007

Travelling to Phi Phi is easy enough; you can get flights from Suvarnabhumi Airport to Krabi and then get the ferry (350 baht and 2 and a half hours) or hire a speed boat (5000 baht and 40 minutes). Once on the island you are confronted with what looks like a massive building site, and in reality that is what Phi Phi is today. The beach is still littered with concrete rubble and the front is a miss-mash of old and new shops and restaurants.

Copyright DC 2007

Views of how much the Tsunami really damaged this fragile eco-system is apparent when you visit the beach during low tide. Our Long Boat driver told us that the beach never had any rocks before the Tsunami and had a flourishing coral reef, but now all that is left is a beach full of boulders and the remains of the reef.

My initial reaction was tourists, especially the Scandinavians, overran the island, as Phi Phi is a major island for 18-30 year olds from Sweden and Norway. This has resulted in loads of “cheap drinks, you want cheap drinks” bars and people trying to get you in them. I understand that the Island needs to be re-constructed and to do that requires serious money, but turning it into a mini Phuket isn’t the way to go about it.

The whole atmosphere left us with a sour view of the way Phi Phi is heading. It is no longer a tranquil resort, but one full of tacky souvenir shops and bars with badly lit neon lights and full of drunken farangs.

Pity, the Island could be so much more

Copyright DC 2007

The bar reminded me of a NYC bar, especially found in Manhattan’s Upper East Side, and makes use of light and textures to create area’s where you can hide in the shadows or be seen in full limelight. As for the drinks, the emphasis seems to be on the cocktail menu, which is perfect for those who want some taste in their life other than Johnny Black and soda water.

The bistro has been designed with light in mind and makes use of white and pastel colours where possible. The food is Thai, but with some serious hints of European and American influences along the way. We had the soft-shell crap to start and gai med ma muang (chicken with cashew nuts) and brown rice. The price is very reasonable and this makes it my new local restaurant.

Overall Pandanus gets my pick of the month award for the whole dining and entertainment package. Not only is the bar enjoyable, the decor of the bistro and the available food makes it a venue where spending a few hours is a joy.

With Valentines Day coming up, you couldn’t go wrong with taking your loved one here!

If you like wine, love views of this city and want a well priced drink, then V9 in the Sofitel hotel (188 Silom Rd) is perfect

We went there on a saturday night, without any reservation, and managed to get a table near the window, with the amazing view over bkk (37th floor). Whilst this venue is a wine bar, and as you walk in you are presented with wines from all around the world, you can still get a good selection of cocktails and food at very reasonable price.
The vibe in this bar is great, with the staff very good at making sure they stay out of your way until you need a refill or anything else.

Well recommended and one of my new weekly haunts

Benjasiri Park (Queen’s Park) is a refuge from the daily chaos of Bangkok. When you walk in, the green atmosphere refreshes you, and the mild scent of wet grass gently touches your nose. Because everything seems to slow down and moves more at its natural pace, you feel the calmness and enjoy your life a little bit more.

A stroll around the park is recommended. You will find many interesting and wonderful sculptures and beautiful tall trees with their Thai and Latin name labeled. In the afternoon, try looking for the pretty fountain in the pond. Various fascinating creatures, like lively pigeons and lazy turtles, and people, like a Japanese couple walking their two-year-old rabbit, will certainly amaze you. But if you prefer to sit down, there are plenty of grassy spots under the trees and benches. You can also buy drinks and snacks from refreshment stalls. In case of toilet emergencies, the park has restrooms available. :)

The park serves every age from toddlers to elders. Parents would take the children to the playground while sipping their drinks on the nearby benches. Teenagers skate away in the skate court. An elderly couple whisper and giggle like in their younger days. Couples and groups of friends enjoy the afternoon picnics. The best part is that anyone can enjoy the park for free from 5 am to 8 pm.

For more Benjasiri Park pictures, click here.

Although the normal ticket prices in Bangkok range around 100 to 140 baht, they depend on the types and the quality of seating that you choose. The prices premium seating such as EGV’s “Gold Class” and Major’s “Emperor” range around 300 to 500 baht. Why? Because you’re paying for the comfortable reclining seats in a smaller theatre. If you’re spoiling yourself at a lower price, you could try the sofa-style seats that some of the cinemas offer.

Because the temperature of the theatres in Bangkok could freeze you to death, do bring light sweaters and avoid wearing short skirts or shorts at all costs. After a series of previews, each theatre will play the Royal Anthum and the audience is expected to stand up to show respect and courtesy to the King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Choosing not to do so, you could immediately become a social outcast, and so the best policy is still the “when in Thailand, do as the Thais do”.

Feeling like going out for a movie? Check movieseer for movies and showtimes.

Hungry? Don’t have to look very far. The Reflections restaurant is just a couple of steps away from the hotel. It serves absolutely delicious Thai and Japanese dishes at rather low prices ranging between 60 to 250 bahts. The hotel also has an outdoor pool and a funky bar for you to chill after the sunset. If you fancy a little tour somewhere, you can check out the tour desk.

To get there, it’s pretty easy. Just hop on the next BTS, get off at the Ari Station, and walk toward the Sapan Kwai Station. You should turn left into Soi Ari (Phaholyothin 7) and walk down a little further. Once you see the extremely bright pink building, just turn left and you’re there! If you’re not quite sure of how to get there or have any question, just call (66) 2-270-3344.

Having visited the place myself last Wednesday, I would just have to say that it’s a place that you should visit at least once. You’ll just fall completely in love with this cute and charming hotel.